Monday, December 28, 2009
I know a number of you are still reading this blog site so here is a letter received from Rion on the 24th December.
I am lying here in the tussock just down from Brewster hut. It is Wednesday the 24th day of our trip 16th December. We are sort of in another intermission stage hiding from the weight of our packs. We have climbed up to Brewster hut to make an ascent of Brewster tomorrow morning.
Leg 2 unravelled like this
Day 1 Richard, Rob and Rion head from Cameron flat to junction flat.
Day 2 Richard turns back to Rabbit pass.
Day 3 Wait for weather to clear on Rabbit pass
Day 4 Drop down Wilkin waterfall face to Top forks hut
day 5 Top forks hut to Siberia hut and meet up with Andy and Richard
Day 6 Rob flies out for perosnal reasons. Siberia hut over Gillispie Pass to Young hut
Day 7 Young hut out to road end via the blue river bridge, camped at Cameron flat, a different one.
Our health, Apart from a few small rashes bumps and cuts we are OK. At times bodies ache in places but we deal with it. Andy has employed a pair of trail shoes and will carry his boots for when he needs them. We are fit now. Today we climbed 1000 metres in 1hr 45 mins, no breaks, average size packs, not bad.
Food the important stuff.
Breakfast, porridge, I dont really enjoy it but I know it is good for me, portions about rightish.
Lunch crackers are good, cheese is keeping. Tararua biscuits are highly nutricious but very heavy. We have been eating them for breakfast on our climbing days to get a quick get away and having porridge for lunch when we return. Probably over portioned them but they are very yum.
Dinner. Home made dehy is amazing. Actually wish we had only dehy meals. Lizzies pastes make them yum too.
Snacks. Scroggin about right. Rob brought in these dehy bananas (ripe bananas sliced long ways, DEVINE)
So we are surviving on the sustinence
LEG 3
We have changed our route for this dramatically. The reason being it is a long way to go up the Landsborough to find out we cant get out under the Scissors. A $900 chopper ride too. So our new route is
Day 1 Walk up the Makaroroa to Makarora hut
Day 2 Cross the low point at the head of Scrubby flat creek, down the creek to Ferguson hut, Hunter valley.
Day 3 Cruise up the Hunter to Forbes Hut
Day 4 Cross the Hunter-Huxley Col to South Huxley Biv
Day 5 Out the Huxley and up the Hopkins to Elcho hut (see alternative)
Day 6 Continue up valley to Richardson Bivvy Rocks
Day 7 Cross Tragedy col to waterfall hut ( We have done some research on this and have the gear to do it safely
Day 8 Up to Barron saddle hut
Day 9 Down the Meuller glacier to Cook village
Day 10, 11 , 12 Spare days
If you had not worked out, I am , we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves and dreading the fact that one of these missions may never happen again.
When you are in the hills you, I, miss little tasks or things I could do but it is becomes so habitual to be in the hills, it might take a little while to readjust back.
There are things I would do differently but the nuts and bolts have worked out. This leg Richard has been amazing in helping us put with transport. What a guy.
There is a another letter on its way talking about climbing Brewster. It gets a big tick, it was awesome, absolutley stuffed though great day.
Merry Christmas to everyone. Rion
I am lying here in the tussock just down from Brewster hut. It is Wednesday the 24th day of our trip 16th December. We are sort of in another intermission stage hiding from the weight of our packs. We have climbed up to Brewster hut to make an ascent of Brewster tomorrow morning.
Leg 2 unravelled like this
Day 1 Richard, Rob and Rion head from Cameron flat to junction flat.
Day 2 Richard turns back to Rabbit pass.
Day 3 Wait for weather to clear on Rabbit pass
Day 4 Drop down Wilkin waterfall face to Top forks hut
day 5 Top forks hut to Siberia hut and meet up with Andy and Richard
Day 6 Rob flies out for perosnal reasons. Siberia hut over Gillispie Pass to Young hut
Day 7 Young hut out to road end via the blue river bridge, camped at Cameron flat, a different one.
Our health, Apart from a few small rashes bumps and cuts we are OK. At times bodies ache in places but we deal with it. Andy has employed a pair of trail shoes and will carry his boots for when he needs them. We are fit now. Today we climbed 1000 metres in 1hr 45 mins, no breaks, average size packs, not bad.
Food the important stuff.
Breakfast, porridge, I dont really enjoy it but I know it is good for me, portions about rightish.
Lunch crackers are good, cheese is keeping. Tararua biscuits are highly nutricious but very heavy. We have been eating them for breakfast on our climbing days to get a quick get away and having porridge for lunch when we return. Probably over portioned them but they are very yum.
Dinner. Home made dehy is amazing. Actually wish we had only dehy meals. Lizzies pastes make them yum too.
Snacks. Scroggin about right. Rob brought in these dehy bananas (ripe bananas sliced long ways, DEVINE)
So we are surviving on the sustinence
LEG 3
We have changed our route for this dramatically. The reason being it is a long way to go up the Landsborough to find out we cant get out under the Scissors. A $900 chopper ride too. So our new route is
Day 1 Walk up the Makaroroa to Makarora hut
Day 2 Cross the low point at the head of Scrubby flat creek, down the creek to Ferguson hut, Hunter valley.
Day 3 Cruise up the Hunter to Forbes Hut
Day 4 Cross the Hunter-Huxley Col to South Huxley Biv
Day 5 Out the Huxley and up the Hopkins to Elcho hut (see alternative)
Day 6 Continue up valley to Richardson Bivvy Rocks
Day 7 Cross Tragedy col to waterfall hut ( We have done some research on this and have the gear to do it safely
Day 8 Up to Barron saddle hut
Day 9 Down the Meuller glacier to Cook village
Day 10, 11 , 12 Spare days
If you had not worked out, I am , we are thoroughly enjoying ourselves and dreading the fact that one of these missions may never happen again.
When you are in the hills you, I, miss little tasks or things I could do but it is becomes so habitual to be in the hills, it might take a little while to readjust back.
There are things I would do differently but the nuts and bolts have worked out. This leg Richard has been amazing in helping us put with transport. What a guy.
There is a another letter on its way talking about climbing Brewster. It gets a big tick, it was awesome, absolutley stuffed though great day.
Merry Christmas to everyone. Rion
Details of Accident
Thought I would update everyone a bit mores specificly on what went on, I intend to back tell a few of the stories as a lot of letters have yet to be posted onine and then Andy and Anton are off for Leg 5 at some point too which will be an adventure in itself.
On the 22nd Andy was troubled by the tendons in his Archillies so we decided that he would rest up on the next day at red hut. As the weather was splendid I decided to go for a climb and headed off for the relativly sedate north ridge of the Dasler Pinnacles. This is a simple rock scramble and the summit was joyously reached offering AMAZING views. On the down climb I must have got a bit off track as I ended up down climbing a vertical section but there had always been heaps of hand holds so no biggy and only seamed about 1m high.
Anyway it was actually higher and it became fractionally overhung and the hand holds got worse. At this point when I thoughT I was secure I slipped and fell. It is unclear whether the rocks (that are somewhat prone to moving) moved or I just slipped.
I fell and then rolled at least once and managed to catch myself with my hands. I managed to bandage myself up with my first aid kit (THATS WHY YOU CARRY ONE) and hobbled 8 hours back to red hut. Andy who was all set to come find me at 4am was very relieved to hear my whistles and yells. I parked up on a bunk and using our Canterbury Mountain Radio we alerted the authorities and a helicopter landed at 6am the next morning. I would like to note here that it would have been plausible for me to be driven out assuming the truck was big good enough to cross the Hopkins river.
Back to Twizel medical centre and a bottle and a half of laughing gas, morphine, chocolate a Dr still in his rowing gear and I had about 40+ stitches putting me back together.
The wound itself had cut through the skin layer and slightly damaged the muscle layer but not very badly. I had a flap of skin like a piece of steak hanging off me. It is located on my quadracept on the outside of the lower left quad and runs down to my knee.
The nurse Libby MacLean at the medical centre happened to be the partner of one of the guys we met at the hut the night before (Callum). Out of the kindness of their heart they invited us back to their house to sort our stuff out. The other bloke who was at the hut, Clifton, was driving to Christchurch that afternoon (christmas eve) so we also managed to get our Mt Cook food box and get a ride with him to my mums cousins. What amazing people!!!!!!!
We also managed to get $60 flights home awesome.
So both of us got home for xmas, though I ended up spending most of it in auckland hospital getting a double dose of I V antibiotics as there were fears of infection.
I am getting better and am permantly parked up on the couch with my leg up in the air. It will be a long time before the wounds heal enough for me to get back into the mountains but I know it could have been so much worse.
If you have any more questions ask away either here or contact me personally.
Im also going to add when I fell I was wearing a helmet, I was carrying enough spare clothes and food with me that I could bivvy the night. Andy knew all that along with my intentions and I knew what Andy would do if I was late back. For what was a simple day walk we were prepared and it paid off.
I have had a great 5 or so weeks in the hills. Big thanks to everyone who helped make it possible and to those who helped get me home safely.
Cheers
Rion & Rhino
ps. If you want I can post wound photos will post some mountain photos shortly too
On the 22nd Andy was troubled by the tendons in his Archillies so we decided that he would rest up on the next day at red hut. As the weather was splendid I decided to go for a climb and headed off for the relativly sedate north ridge of the Dasler Pinnacles. This is a simple rock scramble and the summit was joyously reached offering AMAZING views. On the down climb I must have got a bit off track as I ended up down climbing a vertical section but there had always been heaps of hand holds so no biggy and only seamed about 1m high.
Anyway it was actually higher and it became fractionally overhung and the hand holds got worse. At this point when I thoughT I was secure I slipped and fell. It is unclear whether the rocks (that are somewhat prone to moving) moved or I just slipped.
I fell and then rolled at least once and managed to catch myself with my hands. I managed to bandage myself up with my first aid kit (THATS WHY YOU CARRY ONE) and hobbled 8 hours back to red hut. Andy who was all set to come find me at 4am was very relieved to hear my whistles and yells. I parked up on a bunk and using our Canterbury Mountain Radio we alerted the authorities and a helicopter landed at 6am the next morning. I would like to note here that it would have been plausible for me to be driven out assuming the truck was big good enough to cross the Hopkins river.
Back to Twizel medical centre and a bottle and a half of laughing gas, morphine, chocolate a Dr still in his rowing gear and I had about 40+ stitches putting me back together.
The wound itself had cut through the skin layer and slightly damaged the muscle layer but not very badly. I had a flap of skin like a piece of steak hanging off me. It is located on my quadracept on the outside of the lower left quad and runs down to my knee.
The nurse Libby MacLean at the medical centre happened to be the partner of one of the guys we met at the hut the night before (Callum). Out of the kindness of their heart they invited us back to their house to sort our stuff out. The other bloke who was at the hut, Clifton, was driving to Christchurch that afternoon (christmas eve) so we also managed to get our Mt Cook food box and get a ride with him to my mums cousins. What amazing people!!!!!!!
We also managed to get $60 flights home awesome.
So both of us got home for xmas, though I ended up spending most of it in auckland hospital getting a double dose of I V antibiotics as there were fears of infection.
I am getting better and am permantly parked up on the couch with my leg up in the air. It will be a long time before the wounds heal enough for me to get back into the mountains but I know it could have been so much worse.
If you have any more questions ask away either here or contact me personally.
Im also going to add when I fell I was wearing a helmet, I was carrying enough spare clothes and food with me that I could bivvy the night. Andy knew all that along with my intentions and I knew what Andy would do if I was late back. For what was a simple day walk we were prepared and it paid off.
I have had a great 5 or so weeks in the hills. Big thanks to everyone who helped make it possible and to those who helped get me home safely.
Cheers
Rion & Rhino
ps. If you want I can post wound photos will post some mountain photos shortly too
Friday, December 25, 2009
Accident ends trip
Hi all
The trip is over or at least my part in it.
I fell off the dasler pinnacles at about 3 on the 23rd of December while climbing back down.
I limped back to red hut and got air lifted to Twizel from there I had my left thigh sewen back together we got a ride back to CHCH and a flight home on christmas day.
It sux but it could have been worse too.
Ill embalash the blog a bit more but essentially I am home for the rest of the summer, Andy is still deciding what he will do but he is back in auckland too.
R
The trip is over or at least my part in it.
I fell off the dasler pinnacles at about 3 on the 23rd of December while climbing back down.
I limped back to red hut and got air lifted to Twizel from there I had my left thigh sewen back together we got a ride back to CHCH and a flight home on christmas day.
It sux but it could have been worse too.
Ill embalash the blog a bit more but essentially I am home for the rest of the summer, Andy is still deciding what he will do but he is back in auckland too.
R
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
23rd December
Richard says that he Rion and Andy had an awesome climb up Mt Brewster on Wednesday 16th Dec. Richard took them back to Makarora before he headed off to Mt Cook Village to drop off the food for the 4th leg. Richard also took all of the climbing gear to Mt Cook as Rion and Andy are not planning any climbs just wandering through the valleys and up the passes.
Andys feet are fine now that he has the accent shoes and just uses the tramping boots for climbing. Rion and Andy will phone on Christmas day and will probably get to Mt Cook sometime between Christmas and New Year. Obviously this part of the tramp does not have many other trampers as there has not been any mail come our way. Maybe they should have carried a few pigeons.
The weather on the first and second leg has been awful but it is looking better for this the third leg.There was a note to Craig about tramping club issues with a small comment about having an exciting crossing of the semi flooded Wilkin. They had to pack float it, Rion wished he had taken his mothers dry bag with him so I guess he got his gear rather wet.
Andys feet are fine now that he has the accent shoes and just uses the tramping boots for climbing. Rion and Andy will phone on Christmas day and will probably get to Mt Cook sometime between Christmas and New Year. Obviously this part of the tramp does not have many other trampers as there has not been any mail come our way. Maybe they should have carried a few pigeons.
The weather on the first and second leg has been awful but it is looking better for this the third leg.There was a note to Craig about tramping club issues with a small comment about having an exciting crossing of the semi flooded Wilkin. They had to pack float it, Rion wished he had taken his mothers dry bag with him so I guess he got his gear rather wet.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
16/12/2009 Email sent by Rion who was in Makarora at 0900hrs
Revised trip for Leg 3
We are heading into the Brewster hut to climb Brewster and then back to the car . The route for leg 3 has changed substantially, will leave details with Richard and will write
1/ Makarora hut
2/ Scrubby hut
3/ Hut on top of Hunter
4/ Hunter Huxley col to South Huxley biv
5/Elcho Hut in the Hopkins
6/Richardson Biv Rocks
7/Tragedy Col to Waterfall hut in the Dobson
8/Barron Saddle Hut
9/Mt Cook Village
If Tragedy not an option then
5/ Red hut
6/Le Crens Hut walking arouns the base of Neumann range
7/ Waterfall hut
Richard is getting a new radio today
Revised trip for Leg 3
We are heading into the Brewster hut to climb Brewster and then back to the car . The route for leg 3 has changed substantially, will leave details with Richard and will write
1/ Makarora hut
2/ Scrubby hut
3/ Hut on top of Hunter
4/ Hunter Huxley col to South Huxley biv
5/Elcho Hut in the Hopkins
6/Richardson Biv Rocks
7/Tragedy Col to Waterfall hut in the Dobson
8/Barron Saddle Hut
9/Mt Cook Village
If Tragedy not an option then
5/ Red hut
6/Le Crens Hut walking arouns the base of Neumann range
7/ Waterfall hut
Richard is getting a new radio today
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
17th December 2009
Second leg day 1. Day 1 was probably the worst weather I have ever experienced. Today day 5, things look equally bad and we are a day behind schedule, had hoped to cross the Wilkin today but this is highly unlikely and will wait for a boat, one is due on Monday, today is Sunday 13th
(A wee note from Rion to Nicholas, I committed sacrilege the other day, I had dragged a can of coke up to Rabbit Pass and I drank it on the morning of day 3, it was not that satisfying, quite a waste of coke)
Day 1 8th December. An exciting wee day, Andy dropped us at the swing bridge as a thunderstrom lashed around us. We wadded through swollen rivers to get to the swing bridge. We plodded up the farmland of the East Matukituki, linking up to cross one piddly side stream. A bridge got us over the Glacier Burn and that is when things got fun. The East Matukituki was swollen and flooded, the track side streams were also large. Our first obstacle was 2 side streams that were quite impassable due to the volume and speed of the water. One hour later we had straddled a log across it and kept on marching with the rain still pouring. The next obstacle was a 3-4metre high plume of water which was made by a waterfall crashing down into a bucket shape rock which forced it up again. A wire ran across the channel between the plume and the waterfall. At this point a not safe was issued and we retreated to a too tiny biv rock, platformed out by adze to drink tea and wait for the rain to ease. Once the rain intensity dropped so did the plume and by 6pm we were moving again. The three wire acros Kitchener was excillarating as the muddy river was clunking with boulders and the water leaped high like little fingers wanting to tear you off. By Junction flat things had settled down in the sky though we had wet gear a plenty. Richard and his wet sleeping bag retreated back to Wanaka the next day. Popes nose east face was awesome.
Day 2, A slow start. A brilliant day was in existence as we marched up the East Matukituki with a promise of fine weather until tomorrow pm. The goal was to camp above the Wilkin waterfall face and descend in the morning. Rob and Rion made slowish time to Ruth flat though this may have been due to our marvelling the Turnball Thompson Falls and Kitchener Cirque. The climb to Rabbit Pass was interesting, the lower slopes were full of Alpine daisies. There was one small patch of snow on a rock scramble and we descended to Rabbit Pass , reaching camp at 2130 exhausted .
Day Three. I was woken to rain at 3am, a bad omen though Canterbury Mountain radio confirmed that the weather was going to be good till the avo- it was not. Light rain was ever present and we headed down to look at Rabbit Pass it appeared not to bad -about 20m of dodgyness. The warnings we had received told us to back off and wait till things got drier, hopefully tomorrow. So snuggled in the tent we are.
Day 4 Upper Wilkin to Top forks hut
So in the tent we stayed while the weather boiled around us. Only emerging to try and use the mountain radio- set now broken, a hilarious sight of 2 men holding an ice axe over his head proping up 2 cables while the other hand nurses the radio set, very statue of libertyish, very bloody cold. We only heard thunderstorms. Then we hardened the F.. up shat ourselves on the waterfall face, got to Top Forks, warm fire . PS tent pole now bent from the wind
(A wee note from Rion to Nicholas, I committed sacrilege the other day, I had dragged a can of coke up to Rabbit Pass and I drank it on the morning of day 3, it was not that satisfying, quite a waste of coke)
Day 1 8th December. An exciting wee day, Andy dropped us at the swing bridge as a thunderstrom lashed around us. We wadded through swollen rivers to get to the swing bridge. We plodded up the farmland of the East Matukituki, linking up to cross one piddly side stream. A bridge got us over the Glacier Burn and that is when things got fun. The East Matukituki was swollen and flooded, the track side streams were also large. Our first obstacle was 2 side streams that were quite impassable due to the volume and speed of the water. One hour later we had straddled a log across it and kept on marching with the rain still pouring. The next obstacle was a 3-4metre high plume of water which was made by a waterfall crashing down into a bucket shape rock which forced it up again. A wire ran across the channel between the plume and the waterfall. At this point a not safe was issued and we retreated to a too tiny biv rock, platformed out by adze to drink tea and wait for the rain to ease. Once the rain intensity dropped so did the plume and by 6pm we were moving again. The three wire acros Kitchener was excillarating as the muddy river was clunking with boulders and the water leaped high like little fingers wanting to tear you off. By Junction flat things had settled down in the sky though we had wet gear a plenty. Richard and his wet sleeping bag retreated back to Wanaka the next day. Popes nose east face was awesome.
Day 2, A slow start. A brilliant day was in existence as we marched up the East Matukituki with a promise of fine weather until tomorrow pm. The goal was to camp above the Wilkin waterfall face and descend in the morning. Rob and Rion made slowish time to Ruth flat though this may have been due to our marvelling the Turnball Thompson Falls and Kitchener Cirque. The climb to Rabbit Pass was interesting, the lower slopes were full of Alpine daisies. There was one small patch of snow on a rock scramble and we descended to Rabbit Pass , reaching camp at 2130 exhausted .
Day Three. I was woken to rain at 3am, a bad omen though Canterbury Mountain radio confirmed that the weather was going to be good till the avo- it was not. Light rain was ever present and we headed down to look at Rabbit Pass it appeared not to bad -about 20m of dodgyness. The warnings we had received told us to back off and wait till things got drier, hopefully tomorrow. So snuggled in the tent we are.
Day 4 Upper Wilkin to Top forks hut
So in the tent we stayed while the weather boiled around us. Only emerging to try and use the mountain radio- set now broken, a hilarious sight of 2 men holding an ice axe over his head proping up 2 cables while the other hand nurses the radio set, very statue of libertyish, very bloody cold. We only heard thunderstorms. Then we hardened the F.. up shat ourselves on the waterfall face, got to Top Forks, warm fire . PS tent pole now bent from the wind
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Pope's Nose - Letter from Andy, 4th December
Dear Family
We've recky'd a fair portion of the West Matukituki Valley of late, and explored a few cool places, but I thought instead I might simply relate a kind of trip report on one of the good days, yesterday in fact, knocking the Pope's Nose on the (his) head.
Diary Entry for Day 12: 4 Dec '09
2am start under clear skies and an amazing full moon. A good freeze this morning so it was good cramponing from right outside the door of French Ridge Hut (1480m) - snow was porridge in the afternoon. We plodded up French Ridge, and threw on the rope about 200m below Quarterdeck Pass to step around a few crevasses. The Quarterdeck Pass (our access to the Bonar Glacier) came quickly and our speed was good. Weren't far off passing a trio of climbers who left the hut some time before us. No headtorches needed in this moonlight, one by one surrounding peaks dropped below us. We were feeling good and kept footing without break across the Bonar Neve.
Unbeatable experience! Magic: The bowl of the Neve has like a huge expanse of icy glass, and reflected the full moon in awesome sparkles. Orange tinge to the East gave clues of a rising sun, still an hour under the horizon. The stars were brilliantly clear, Venus (perhaps!?) glowed bright orange and shooting stars soared throught the sky with unbelievable clarity.
No shit...actual shooting stars!!
Must admit to tripping on the rope a couple of times, so encapsulated by the spectacle we were.
A bit more serious business was involved climbing up the crevassed slopes under Mt Aspiring and Pope's Nose. A few nicely placed snow bridges let us across most big gaps in more or less a straight line. A bit of exitement when Rion lost a leg into a thin deep slot!
We set four pitches up Pope's Nose, mostly to negotiate a small shrund at the base. The steep snow face to reach the summit ridge, was more straightforward with two tools but we kept the rope on anyway, given the freakin gnarly drop over the other side.
"Glad you convinced me to carry those extra ice screws" Rion squeaked in mountain otter language as I came up on his second belay. Half driven snow stake equalised on a screw in kinda hard snowish ice...ish (Rion now claims the stake was only a backup). Sweet bro. The traverse East to the Summit was simple enough...slung a couple of rocks on the narrow ridge.
Hi 5's on the summit (2700m). Awesome, look @ the view, have a beer. It's the second highest mo-fo in the region and Aspiring tempts us next door. This has been a good test of our skills though. Conscious of returning across the Bonar before the noon sun smoked the crust, we solo downclimbed the face and enjoyed a glorious dawdle home. Lunch and Clive Cussler on the balcony of FR hut.
......And....thanks Lizzie for the dehy icecream, it was so good, set real nice in the snow outside.
Lookin forward to catchin up the "the lads" Rob and Ric in few days. Hope all is well with friends and folk up North.
Love and hongi's from
Andy, Rion and Rhinocerous
We've recky'd a fair portion of the West Matukituki Valley of late, and explored a few cool places, but I thought instead I might simply relate a kind of trip report on one of the good days, yesterday in fact, knocking the Pope's Nose on the (his) head.
Diary Entry for Day 12: 4 Dec '09
2am start under clear skies and an amazing full moon. A good freeze this morning so it was good cramponing from right outside the door of French Ridge Hut (1480m) - snow was porridge in the afternoon. We plodded up French Ridge, and threw on the rope about 200m below Quarterdeck Pass to step around a few crevasses. The Quarterdeck Pass (our access to the Bonar Glacier) came quickly and our speed was good. Weren't far off passing a trio of climbers who left the hut some time before us. No headtorches needed in this moonlight, one by one surrounding peaks dropped below us. We were feeling good and kept footing without break across the Bonar Neve.
Unbeatable experience! Magic: The bowl of the Neve has like a huge expanse of icy glass, and reflected the full moon in awesome sparkles. Orange tinge to the East gave clues of a rising sun, still an hour under the horizon. The stars were brilliantly clear, Venus (perhaps!?) glowed bright orange and shooting stars soared throught the sky with unbelievable clarity.
No shit...actual shooting stars!!
Must admit to tripping on the rope a couple of times, so encapsulated by the spectacle we were.
A bit more serious business was involved climbing up the crevassed slopes under Mt Aspiring and Pope's Nose. A few nicely placed snow bridges let us across most big gaps in more or less a straight line. A bit of exitement when Rion lost a leg into a thin deep slot!
We set four pitches up Pope's Nose, mostly to negotiate a small shrund at the base. The steep snow face to reach the summit ridge, was more straightforward with two tools but we kept the rope on anyway, given the freakin gnarly drop over the other side.
"Glad you convinced me to carry those extra ice screws" Rion squeaked in mountain otter language as I came up on his second belay. Half driven snow stake equalised on a screw in kinda hard snowish ice...ish (Rion now claims the stake was only a backup). Sweet bro. The traverse East to the Summit was simple enough...slung a couple of rocks on the narrow ridge.
Hi 5's on the summit (2700m). Awesome, look @ the view, have a beer. It's the second highest mo-fo in the region and Aspiring tempts us next door. This has been a good test of our skills though. Conscious of returning across the Bonar before the noon sun smoked the crust, we solo downclimbed the face and enjoyed a glorious dawdle home. Lunch and Clive Cussler on the balcony of FR hut.
......And....thanks Lizzie for the dehy icecream, it was so good, set real nice in the snow outside.
Lookin forward to catchin up the "the lads" Rob and Ric in few days. Hope all is well with friends and folk up North.
Love and hongi's from
Andy, Rion and Rhinocerous
Monday, December 7, 2009
Leg 2: Modified Strategy
Ok as you can imagine things have been changed a little bit over time
The new plan is
Rob Richard and I will head into the East Matukituki as planned and head over Rabbit Pass.
Andy will take a few more days to rest/mend and he will than walk in and we will re unite at Siberia hut.
Rather than climb Pollux we will attempt an ascent of Alba from Siberia hut.
Than we will continue out via Gillespie Pass to the Young catchment.
Once we get to Makarora we will re assess everything and make a call if Andy's ankle is capable of continuing through to Cook.
The new plan is
Rob Richard and I will head into the East Matukituki as planned and head over Rabbit Pass.
Andy will take a few more days to rest/mend and he will than walk in and we will re unite at Siberia hut.
Rather than climb Pollux we will attempt an ascent of Alba from Siberia hut.
Than we will continue out via Gillespie Pass to the Young catchment.
Once we get to Makarora we will re assess everything and make a call if Andy's ankle is capable of continuing through to Cook.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Leg 1: Actual Route
Day 1: Lake Sylvan Carpark to Rockburn hut
Day 2: Rockburn hut back to Lake Sylvan and up the Routeburn road hitched and walked around to Chinamans bluff than walked to Dayls Flat hut (30km walked that day)
Day 3: Up the Dart to Dart hut
Day 4: Attempted to summit Mt Edward from the Whitbourn Glacier only achieved Mt Troas
Day 5: Watched the thunder and lightening while eating Paddy's (The Dart hut wardens) fresshly baked cookies
Day 6: Crossed the Cascade saddle beside the main tributary of the cascade stream
Day 7: Fought Keas all night and climbed Tyndall in the morning than headed down over the Pylon and to Aspiring hut (The first crossing of the season) - Got Pumpkin soup from karen (the warden) on arrival
Day 8: Headed up to Liverpool Hut
Day 9: After planning to climb Barff in the morning had to abort to go pick up Andy's orthotics (though the weather was average too) so walked to Aspiring Hut
Day 10: Climbed up to French Ridge Hut
Day 11: Average weather at 3am so slept in climbed up to the Quarterdeck to check out route for tomorrow
Day 12: Climbed the Popes Nose --AWESOME--
Day 13: Walked out of french ridge heading to Rock of the Ages biv, Andy's ankle had got progressivly worse so walked out to Raspberry Flat and got a lift to Wanaka with some Whakapapa Ski Patrollers
Day 14: Watched Cricket, did cross words, thought about going out for dinner but ate dehy meals cause they are better
Day 2: Rockburn hut back to Lake Sylvan and up the Routeburn road hitched and walked around to Chinamans bluff than walked to Dayls Flat hut (30km walked that day)
Day 3: Up the Dart to Dart hut
Day 4: Attempted to summit Mt Edward from the Whitbourn Glacier only achieved Mt Troas
Day 5: Watched the thunder and lightening while eating Paddy's (The Dart hut wardens) fresshly baked cookies
Day 6: Crossed the Cascade saddle beside the main tributary of the cascade stream
Day 7: Fought Keas all night and climbed Tyndall in the morning than headed down over the Pylon and to Aspiring hut (The first crossing of the season) - Got Pumpkin soup from karen (the warden) on arrival
Day 8: Headed up to Liverpool Hut
Day 9: After planning to climb Barff in the morning had to abort to go pick up Andy's orthotics (though the weather was average too) so walked to Aspiring Hut
Day 10: Climbed up to French Ridge Hut
Day 11: Average weather at 3am so slept in climbed up to the Quarterdeck to check out route for tomorrow
Day 12: Climbed the Popes Nose --AWESOME--
Day 13: Walked out of french ridge heading to Rock of the Ages biv, Andy's ankle had got progressivly worse so walked out to Raspberry Flat and got a lift to Wanaka with some Whakapapa Ski Patrollers
Day 14: Watched Cricket, did cross words, thought about going out for dinner but ate dehy meals cause they are better
Friday, December 4, 2009
BAIL to WANAKA
Andy's Ankle has got progressivly worse
Thus we have bailed to wanaka to seek medical treatment.
Arrived today day 13.
Will update with what we are going to do once we work that out for ourselves.
UPDATE: We intend to get to a Dr or Physio tomorrow or if nothing is available on monday
Apart from that we will be just killing time in Wanaka untill Richard and Rob arrive for leg 2. I will definitly be going with them up the East Matukituki it remains to be seen what Andy does and depend on how quickly the swelling reduces
Thus we have bailed to wanaka to seek medical treatment.
Arrived today day 13.
Will update with what we are going to do once we work that out for ourselves.
UPDATE: We intend to get to a Dr or Physio tomorrow or if nothing is available on monday
Apart from that we will be just killing time in Wanaka untill Richard and Rob arrive for leg 2. I will definitly be going with them up the East Matukituki it remains to be seen what Andy does and depend on how quickly the swelling reduces
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Day 4 26th Nov 2009
Received 4th Dec 2009
We are at Dart hut after a magnificient day climbing Mt Troas above the Whitbourn glacier. We headed out early this morning from Dart hut,(though not as early as we would have liked, we overslept the alarm). We charged up the Whitbourn, then sidled up the western face leading to the western ridge. The weather was magnificient though we were conscious that the forcast was for 90 km winds at 2000 m. Our packs were relatively light. Our actual goal was Mt Edward thanks for the idea David) but we were running 2 hrs late and the overnight freeze was turning to slush. After lunching on the northern side of Troas we attempted to continue sidling along the north side of the ridge. The snow was now quite soft and after noticing a slab avalanche on a similiar aspect of Maoriri, we turned back. The mixed climb of the western face of Troas was solo-ed offering amazing views of a navigatable Whitbourn glacier, the majestic Snow Drift Range and the Earnslaw massiff. It was a very special and awesome day, we only wish we got up at 4.
But you must be asking what we are doing at Dart hut already. Well on day 1 we plodded our way up to Rockburn hut, the weather forecast for the week was quite unsettled, especially for the weekend when we wanted to cross the Olivine via a complicated route. Considering we were struggling with our packs we decided that some marked river walking might be a better idea to help us adapt.
So we backtracked out to the Routeburn Rd and hitched and walked to Chinamans Bluff. At 3 we decided to try and make it to Daleys Flat, or camp beforehand. It was a major struggle and I have never feared a 100m climb more than Sandy Bluff. We made the hut and I collapsed, my feet, calves, hamstrings,back and shoulders refused to operate. Never ever ever have I been so sore after a days tramping. Andy was a bit better so he brought me some food.We did not break camp to get to the Dart hut until 11 am but we were definitely getting stronger despite the rain. We are sitting tight tomorrow as buckets of rain are forecast and 150kph winds too which means we cant get out on the top.
The goal is to cross over Cascade climbing Tyndall on the way. Potentially heading to Colin Todd hut, other options include Marion Plateau.
Anyway Richard, was wondering if you could bring in a decent small and light alarm clock and some size 11-12 jandals for me, though we will probably be in touch before this letter arrives.
Hope the cricket is going well. Andy says Hi to his parents though he misses civilisation as he is still looking for light switches.
Typed in by Marjet who may have misread some of Rion's writing.
There has been some radio messages from Rion and Andy in the past few days. Andy connected with his orthotics. They have stayed at the Liverpool bivvy and also on French ridge.
We are at Dart hut after a magnificient day climbing Mt Troas above the Whitbourn glacier. We headed out early this morning from Dart hut,(though not as early as we would have liked, we overslept the alarm). We charged up the Whitbourn, then sidled up the western face leading to the western ridge. The weather was magnificient though we were conscious that the forcast was for 90 km winds at 2000 m. Our packs were relatively light. Our actual goal was Mt Edward thanks for the idea David) but we were running 2 hrs late and the overnight freeze was turning to slush. After lunching on the northern side of Troas we attempted to continue sidling along the north side of the ridge. The snow was now quite soft and after noticing a slab avalanche on a similiar aspect of Maoriri, we turned back. The mixed climb of the western face of Troas was solo-ed offering amazing views of a navigatable Whitbourn glacier, the majestic Snow Drift Range and the Earnslaw massiff. It was a very special and awesome day, we only wish we got up at 4.
But you must be asking what we are doing at Dart hut already. Well on day 1 we plodded our way up to Rockburn hut, the weather forecast for the week was quite unsettled, especially for the weekend when we wanted to cross the Olivine via a complicated route. Considering we were struggling with our packs we decided that some marked river walking might be a better idea to help us adapt.
So we backtracked out to the Routeburn Rd and hitched and walked to Chinamans Bluff. At 3 we decided to try and make it to Daleys Flat, or camp beforehand. It was a major struggle and I have never feared a 100m climb more than Sandy Bluff. We made the hut and I collapsed, my feet, calves, hamstrings,back and shoulders refused to operate. Never ever ever have I been so sore after a days tramping. Andy was a bit better so he brought me some food.We did not break camp to get to the Dart hut until 11 am but we were definitely getting stronger despite the rain. We are sitting tight tomorrow as buckets of rain are forecast and 150kph winds too which means we cant get out on the top.
The goal is to cross over Cascade climbing Tyndall on the way. Potentially heading to Colin Todd hut, other options include Marion Plateau.
Anyway Richard, was wondering if you could bring in a decent small and light alarm clock and some size 11-12 jandals for me, though we will probably be in touch before this letter arrives.
Hope the cricket is going well. Andy says Hi to his parents though he misses civilisation as he is still looking for light switches.
Typed in by Marjet who may have misread some of Rion's writing.
There has been some radio messages from Rion and Andy in the past few days. Andy connected with his orthotics. They have stayed at the Liverpool bivvy and also on French ridge.
"Foot beds"
Bit of a mission to get Andy's orthotics to him. We had to get them to Wanaka, find someone who did track transport, connect with the boys without knowing exactly where they were or when they would prefer to receive the delivery. We are grateful to all the kind people who couriered and carried and those who heard the story on mountain radio and helped. We hope they do the trick and help with ankle.
As I understand it Rion and Andy's movements were:
As I understand it Rion and Andy's movements were:
- Sat 28 Nov - somehwere in Cascade saddle area
- Sun 29 - Planning an attempt on Mt Tyndall (2496m). Not sure if this went ahead as Met Service were forecasting gales at the time.
- Mon 30 - Liverpool Bivvy
- Tues 1 Dec - Back to Aspiring Hut to connect with Orthotics (or foot beds as man from Alpine transport kept calling them)
- Planned to head to French Ridge Hut
Weather has been reported as fine with light winds since then. Mountain radio also told us that Richard collected a field set for his walk in the Arthur's pass area and can talk to the boys before he joins them for the next leg. Its been great to hear a bit of news - we're leaving 'patient Paul' at Mountain Radio alone for a while now
Thompson parents
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